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November 26, 2020, 04:49:48 04:49


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Author Topic: Velleman K7200 Gerber file  (Read 2179 times)
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metal
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« Reply #25 on: November 16, 2020, 07:12:25 19:12 »

Just an little update on project, I've had the boards made and they look good quality only took less than 5 days to arrive from the date of the order.

I've built one board up and been testing it from a 24V PSU, A long the way there was on little error with one transistor foot print was incorrect, Which I checked and checked but this one must have slipped through the net. We live and learn. Not that it was to much trouble I just turned it around.

I've also be working on the front end on the digital part. I've attached a couple of photo's just to show if anyone is interested in following.

The code is almost completed, Just awaiting some more DAC's to arrive as I've only one at the moment but I can use this to get the voltage control working then swap to the current control. I've done it so that you cna use both pots and keypad to set the output voltage and current.

Brief description on how it work,
It use a 16way key pad to set the voltage on Channel 1 you press the * key once, Press it again and you move to channel 2 and a third press it aborts the input but outputs remain the same, This is the same for current but press # instead.
Once you have selected the channel, The voltage reading starts to flash then you can enter the voltage required and you can see the keypress your entering, once set this displays the set voltage along with the set current at the bottom as you can see.

I've got to work out the math's so when you enter 5.00v on the keypad the output voltage is matched the same.(this is on my working list).

Both channels will be isolated from each other and I shall be using    an SI8600 Chip(I2C isolator )so that I can use one display and controller for both.

More will follow soon and including a video of the digital part working.

wizpic, sure you are using proton GLCD lib, am I right? if so, what do you use for the fonts?
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Wizpic
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« Reply #26 on: November 16, 2020, 07:41:49 19:41 »

wizpic, sure you are using proton GLCD lib, am I right? if so, what do you use for the fonts?
No Shoot me down  Cheesy, at the moment an Arduino Mega256 but may cut it down to a mini or uno providing I've got enough pins lol.

Now I'm looking into rotary encoder to set the Dac, Just looking for examples at the moment(this is the best way i learn) I know in the past when I've used an encoder I found that it misses steps and this one of the reason I chose the keypad and pots, But do like the idea of a encoder on the front end with a few buttons as memory buttons to set a set voltage, Looking at a more reliable solution, I have found a circuit that should improve the signal and make it cleaner shown in the image below.

Does any one have a working example or more reliable method , Just adjusting the voltage on the dac using an encoder ?
 
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« Reply #27 on: November 16, 2020, 09:41:19 21:41 »

 Undecided  Undecided  Undecided  Huh  Huh  Huh

I hate arduino so much, anyway, for the sake of good old days, here is mine, it doesn't miss dents, and it worked like a charm in Oct 2009! Nothing is connected to the pins of the rotary encoder other than the MCU pins and their internal pullups. The trick was to use the timer interrupt as a debounce method to overcome the bounces from mechanical contacts. You can guess the frequency by looking at the timer register values.

I attached the code adapted for WinAVR, IAR and cvAVR, you can tell when looking at the code. you are on your own to tweak the code for your arduino, but if you manage to make it work, it will be real good for your project. The QUADRATURE is to support a different rotary encoder so I don't remember which line in the directives should work for yours.
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« Reply #28 on: November 16, 2020, 09:50:43 21:50 »

Thanks, I shall have a look at your code, I've been doing some playing around, I get the encoder code working nicely showing the increments of on on the serial monitor,

I then try to add my ADS1115 and MCP4725 and everything just gets screwed up and it no longer increments, the same if I only add the MCP4725 alone,  I shall carry on playing for a bit more before bedtime

It's all fun in learning and playing around 
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« Reply #29 on: November 17, 2020, 06:27:55 06:27 »


I have bought rotary encoders from Aliexpress. make sure its the 5 pin version, so it has the switch in addition to the rotary part



https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32947217301.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.3e294e99ZIhsSM&algo_pvid=3fc6ce5a-eb91-495e-96ab-f43336b83354&algo_expid=3fc6ce5a-eb91-495e-96ab-f43336b83354-0&btsid=0b0a187b16055942410426434e15b4&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001207874956.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.3e294e99ZIhsSM&algo_pvid=3fc6ce5a-eb91-495e-96ab-f43336b83354&algo_expid=3fc6ce5a-eb91-495e-96ab-f43336b83354-2&btsid=0b0a187b16055942410426434e15b4&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
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« Reply #30 on: Yesterday at 10:06:28 PM »

I've been working on this again and now have chosen to go with 1 or2 rotary encoders(not decided yet.), I can set the Dac output with it and had it hooked up to my PSU board and the results are great so far.

To get some ideas I've watched the of an over view on the Siglent SPD3303C power supply which uses a single rotary encoder and 3 buttons to set the output voltages and the amps on both channels along with a fine button.

Then another 4 buttons, 2 Buttons select channel 1 or 2, Then the other 2 Turn the output on/off, See pic below

I can add/worry about the memory buttons later once everything else is working. (if needed)

I like the way this is set up and works plus it looks easy to use and implement , Now this is where I'm a bit undecided on Method A or Method B.

Method A.
To keep the same the set up as it is in the pic below (keep the foot print and layout small on the front panel) ?

Method B.
To remove the channel1&2 select buttons and have 1 rotary encoder with 3 buttons , one to select  between the voltage and amps setting along with the 3rd for the fine settings for each channel ?

This is where I'd like some input, what would you do or prefer Method A or Method B  ?
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« Reply #31 on: Yesterday at 10:39:00 PM »

How will you attack the digital current/voltage settings?
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