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Author Topic: mini semi-automatic drill for pcb's  (Read 3159 times)
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esdrufao
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« on: July 07, 2012, 01:14:42 13:14 »

Hello to all forum, I leave the information to mount a mini semi-automatic drill for pcb's. The idea here kick http://www.micropic.es/mpforo/index.php?topic=1089.0

 More pictures in the link above, here you have a video and outline your firmware.


http://youtu.be/uaOBrs6MndU

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oldvan
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« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2012, 08:37:19 20:37 »

A useful looking device!

Perhaps add a potentiometer to an analog input pin to dictate feed rate downward?

Two unused PIC outputs and a few lines of software could eliminate need for Q2, Q3 and four resistors.

A LCD Display could open up worlds of possibilities.
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« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2012, 08:48:31 20:48 »

just add z&y and you have cracked it.
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« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2012, 09:28:14 21:28 »

just add z&y and you have cracked it.
Or X and Y even?   Tongue
« Last Edit: July 07, 2012, 09:35:42 21:35 by oldvan » Logged

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« Reply #4 on: July 07, 2012, 10:01:14 22:01 »

I thought he had z.. and needed x&y

I still have drill press for now.
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« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2012, 08:40:33 08:40 »

Hello to all forum, the engine speed is low because, if you see it in the program:


 down:                                                  'turn left
 porte =% 00000000
 pause 2     
 porte =% 00000001
 pause 2     
 porte =% 00000011
 pause 2     
 porte =% 00000010
 pause 2
return

If I put the break of 1mS the motor can not move cargo, in a vacuum,( ie without charge) moves faster,I tried to play by changing the breaks, but without a good result ..... This is one of the problems I found, soe as I set very well and this is one of my first programs "serious", I guess  I could have used a DC motor instead of a dad, but what I had on hand in my humble workshop amateur.Also changing step of the threaded rod by one more get an increase in speed.

 Best regards and sorry for my bad English
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« Reply #6 on: July 08, 2012, 09:08:49 09:08 »

IMO an investment in just up down motion devise isn't really economical when you can build a small CNC router table with x,y, and z motion for a few hundred dollars and get total control using already available CNC control software...

I can see the feed rate and perfect up/down movement being beneficial to not breaking drills but I don't see it being all the practical in the end over a drill press...  I broke a lot of drills early on making my own boards but after some trial and error the breaks became fewer and fewer between to the point it wasn't even an issue any longer...

Not to say you can't lean a lot by building such a machine, it's certainly a good learning experience that can be built upon and in that respect it's a good start to bigger and better things...
« Last Edit: July 08, 2012, 09:11:22 09:11 by CocaCola » Logged
esdrufao
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« Reply #7 on: July 08, 2012, 09:24:20 09:24 »

Totally agree Coca Cola, of course it is better to have a cnc  Grin but if you embark on small projects like this do not learn, that is used to drill me the pcb `s, but I have learned in building and programming mechatronics two disciplines I hope to get to grips with a good level, the next step ... building a cnc and saw pcb `s small size.

 thank you very much again for the comments and sorry for my bad English
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« Reply #8 on: July 08, 2012, 09:58:45 09:58 »

Hello to all forum, the engine speed is low because, if you see it in the program:...

If I put the break of 1mS the motor can not move cargo, in a vacuum,( ie without charge) moves faster,I tried to play by changing the breaks, but without a good result ..... This is one of the problems I found, soe as I set very well and this is one of my first programs "serious", I guess  I could have used a DC motor instead of a dad, but what I had on hand in my humble workshop amateur.Also changing step of the threaded rod by one more get an increase in speed.
Stepper motors require adequate voltage to achieve torque and speed.  The stepper motors on my homemade CNC router are rated 2.45V at 3.5A but operate from a 45V power supply.  The driver board limits current via pulse width modulation techniques to avoid frying the motor's windings.

HERE is a good explanation of stepper motors.
« Last Edit: July 08, 2012, 10:01:01 10:01 by oldvan » Logged

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« Reply #9 on: July 08, 2012, 10:44:23 10:44 »

thank`s for the link Grin i go to read now,the power supply for the motor is 16v and 25A Grin and i supose to change for more voltage and minus amp`s.

Thank`s
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« Reply #10 on: August 22, 2012, 09:57:28 09:57 »

Hello Members, I have updated the schematic and firmware, fellow mandragora21 these days and I were mulling over some of my design bugs and has been added to enable the L298 (in the previous version could heat up the coffee while drilling engine) so we reduce the intensity at rest and touched the red LED stop drill no work fine.Sometimes not added a 1nF capacitors in parallel with the buttons to prevent ricochet (when i power up the device was activated relay drill with this and it does not)
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« Reply #11 on: August 22, 2012, 11:12:39 11:12 »

... Sometimes not added a 1nF capacitors in parallel with the buttons to prevent ricochet (when i power up the device was activated relay drill with this and it does not)
An initial delay of a half second will allow everything to stabilize so that no false triggers occur at power-up.  A look for incorrectly initialized variables might be useful as well.

De-bouncing the switches with software is simple and reliable, so there is no need for C7-C12.  Solving software problems by adding hardware is expensive and removes the incentive to correct the software.

The enable inputs of the L298 are specified as TTL Compatible, so I don't see a cause for R8; it may bring problems.

Your new schematic is missing connection dots at the junction of R1/+5V and at the junction of +5V/C6/R2.  Most of the connection dots on your input switches have migrated upward.

The connection from the emitter of Q3 heading to the right is redundant; eliminating it will make the schematic slightly more readable.

Do you have a 0.01 or 0.1 uF capacitor across the power supply as close as possible to U2? Normally C1 and C2 will be placed as close to the regulator as possible, and another placed close to the PIC.  Also, 0.1 uF ceramic across pins 8 and 9 of U3 would be good for stability.
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esdrufao
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« Reply #12 on: August 22, 2012, 06:16:07 18:16 »

 have reviewed the scheme and lack're right c6/r2/d2 connection point, I tried to put a pause of 100ms before the program and I did the same, I've put the 100nF SMD capacitor below the pic on the side the track just in the power pins of the same and the last solution was to put capacitors on buzzers, no mounting anything expensive in case one few cents, something that leads to ruin anyone jejejeje.Acept your advice to modify the design, once it has some free time I upload a more readable version of the scheme and the revised firmware.

 Meanwhile receives a warm greeting from Spain and thanks for your comment.
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Unhappy
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« Reply #13 on: August 22, 2012, 07:11:43 19:11 »

IMO an investment in just up down motion devise isn't really economical when you can build a small CNC router table with x,y, and z motion for a few hundred dollars and get total control using already available CNC control software...

I can see the feed rate and perfect up/down movement being beneficial to not breaking drills but I don't see it being all the practical in the end over a drill press...  I broke a lot of drills early on making my own boards but after some trial and error the breaks became fewer and fewer between to the point it wasn't even an issue any longer...

Not to say you can't lean a lot by building such a machine, it's certainly a good learning experience that can be built upon and in that respect it's a good start to bigger and better things...
Dear friend CocaCola
Please provide the schematic, firmware and design for such CNC machine I would like to try
Tks & rgds
Unhappy
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CocaCola
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« Reply #14 on: August 22, 2012, 10:18:44 22:18 »

Dear friend CocaCola
Please provide the schematic, firmware and design for such CNC machine I would like to try
Tks & rgds
Unhappy

The plans for such machines are all over the Internet, as well as pre-assembled ones from Asia for just a small upcharge over what it cost in parts...  Same with schematics for the CNC control, lots of different ones out there or just pick up a very low cost assembled board...

I can't really link to any plans in particular as I don't have any real hands on experience with any of them...  Just Google some up and start reading...  I reviewed and looked at A LOT of the DIY plans but in the end I took the easy way out and just picked up an assembled one from Asia (A Sable 2015) as it was a rock solid all aluminum build and $ for $ I would not have been able to build one comparable without a lot of labor hours and work...  But, you can build very low cost MDF (compressed fiber board) ones for low force applications like PC boards for substantially lower cost...

As for software MACH3 and EMC2 are the most popular all around, but there are several packages limited to certain applications that work well in their limited capacity...

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