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Author Topic: Water Valve  (Read 2202 times)
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odsk
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« on: September 27, 2010, 11:03:31 23:03 »

Hi All Members,
I trying to use a water valve (a cheap one) in a circuit I am  working on to fill a water tank and come across "Orbit 62035" water valve (it is relatively cheap).
Anyone know what is the voltage rating for the coil...etc or how to drive it?
Or do you suggest another type of water valve
use is external, for water only, I have 5V and 12V in my design


Thanks
ODSK
« Last Edit: September 27, 2010, 11:08:09 23:08 by odsk » Logged
pickit2
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« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2010, 01:14:53 01:14 »

http://www.amazon.com/Orbit-62001-Garden-Digital-Watering/product-reviews/B0006ZI6H8/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

Looks in same range,This one Uses 2 9Volt batteries, If your filling a tank, can you not use float valve.
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oldboy
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« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2010, 04:30:24 04:30 »

I have not used this valve, but other irrigation valves (Toro and Rainbird) at 24 VAC.  This seems to be a standard for irrigation valves.

Now to this valve:

A quick google search yielded this.
http://rayshobby.blogspot.com/2010/08/how-to-control-orbit-62035-valve.html
The author mentions operating the valve at 24 V DC. He also gives a little driver circuit from an arduino chip. My electronics skills are not what they should be to comment if the circuit would work or not for your application.

But now here is more conflicting information:
This valve
http://www.techmall.com/Orbit-Automatic-Yard-Watering-System-62032-p/52397.htm
system seems to be compatible with
http://www.amazon.com/Orbit-62035-Extra-Watering-System/dp/B0016HQOYC

The Orbit-62035 seems to be powered by 3 AA batteries.

+1 for pickit2s suggestion for using a float valve to stop the flow. Why complicate matters when you dont have to!
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odsk
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« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2010, 05:15:45 05:15 »

Thanks for the reply,
I was thinking about a float valve before but based on my expreince, with a small build up around the float seal the float valve will loose its ability to seal. I was thinkning that this valve since is used in lawn timers that it uses low voltage but I was wrong.
Must they are using some voltage boosters to rise the voltage to 24V from the 3 AA batteries. But still not clear about the amps.
ODSK
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Jagrolet
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« Reply #4 on: October 09, 2010, 07:52:40 19:52 »

Irrigation water valves also come in 12VDC versions, I have used them.
The issue I have always had with irrigation valves is that they are typically latching types.
This means you have pulse the coil to open the valve, then reverse the polarity and pulse
again to to close. Not very convienient if you ask me. There are a multitude of solenoid valves on the market
that do not require reversing the polarity. They use a spring to hold them closed (or Open).
Most solenoid valves are offered with interchangeable coils in various voltages,
that fit the same valves, typically 6, 12, and 24 Volts. A quick Google of 12V solenoid valve turns up alot of options.
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odsk
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« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2010, 05:36:45 05:36 »

Thanks All,
I opted to remove the Controlled valve and just use a float valve. It is more convinient and less costly.
Now the issue that I am facing in my design is this:
the system is based on a pic16f886, LCD, ds1307 for the clock and I used uln2003 (it is an overkill) to control a relay that switches a water pump.
in proteurs the system works -but-I had to add I2c debug device or the system won't show anything at all on the LCD.
in real life the system works -but- I had to remove the DS battery (and short Pin3 to GND in the DS). if I put the battery back on, the system won't show anything on LCD.
The Data and CLK are pulled up by 4.7K (I tried diffrent values but no success)
Any advice?
Thanks all.
odsk
« Last Edit: October 14, 2010, 05:44:58 05:44 by odsk » Logged
oldvan
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« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2010, 02:24:01 14:24 »

Any advice?

Post schematic.
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odsk
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« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2010, 04:40:37 16:40 »

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« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2010, 05:44:14 17:44 »

Have you handled the obvious, like a 0.01 to 0.01 uF ceramic capacitor across the
power supply pins of the PIC, another across the power supply pins of the LCD,
and one for the DS1307 as well? 

Is the DS1307 correctly grounded to the rest of the circuit?

The "obvious" things are most often those that get the better of me, as they are
so obvious they get forgotten in the noise of the biggies.
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odsk
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« Reply #9 on: October 14, 2010, 06:54:58 18:54 »

I do have all the capacitors for decoupling in the second sheet (along the power supply section). When I go home I will double check what you mentioned about proper grounding.
odsk

Have you handled the obvious, like a 0.01 to 0.01 uF ceramic capacitor across the
power supply pins of the PIC, another across the power supply pins of the LCD,
and one for the DS1307 as well? 

Is the DS1307 correctly grounded to the rest of the circuit?

The "obvious" things are most often those that get the better of me, as they are
so obvious they get forgotten in the noise of the biggies.
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odsk
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« Reply #10 on: October 15, 2010, 04:32:07 04:32 »

Gents,
I got it working now after changing the resistor type from Analog to digital under Protues (the 2 pull up resistors)!!! But I am still confused about the real live device when I put the backup battery and remove the short (pin3 to GND on DS1307) the system stops completely.

odsk
« Last Edit: October 15, 2010, 03:26:13 15:26 by odsk » Logged
ktek
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« Reply #11 on: October 19, 2010, 01:55:42 13:55 »

for me it is best to sostiuire u4 with low-cost mosfet like:

BSH105     1A   20V
SI2304DS    1,7A    30V



Posted on: October 19, 2010, 01:49:55 13:49 - Automerged

However, I have done a similar system for the Aquarium
using a solenoid valve from washing machine at 220v
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