smainj
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« on: October 27, 2007, 04:18:58 16:18 » |
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wich good paper to use it for this method with Lazer printer.
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microkid
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« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2007, 04:59:27 16:59 » |
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Never Never Never giveup
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smainj
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« Reply #2 on: October 27, 2007, 06:13:28 18:13 » |
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Thanks for the help i appreciate i'm doing more test considering ur advice.
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wessoms
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« Reply #3 on: October 27, 2007, 07:03:43 19:03 » |
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smainj I have made 500+ PCB's at home. Single and double sided. The best way I found is to use an inkjet printer with inkjet transparencies ( Avery is what I use ). With an inkjet printer ( Epson Color Stylus 880) I set the image to black n white, 2400 dpi and select premium inject photo paper. Turn off the dithering and scale 1 to 1. I print the layer of the PCB. Wait 10 minutes for the ink to dry. Put the same transparency back in the printer and print the image again over the top of the original print. This will make the line dark enough to use. I then use the pre sensitized pcb material ( MG or GC electronics) and place the transparency over the PCB. Be careful of orientation and alignment. Do this in the dark. Put a piece of thin glas over the top. Expose to bright SUN (30 seconds) or overcast (for about 1 minute). Then go back into the dark and develope the PCB. Do this in the dark otherwise the PCB will continue to expose while it is developing. After the extra material is removed you can then wash the PCB. Once this is done then you can expose to the light and etch. I found that a bank of RED leds work as a great light source to work in the dark.
Hope this help.
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smainj
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« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2007, 09:41:19 09:41 » |
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thanks wessoms but i don't use this methode i use direct transfer toner from papier to PCB 
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user112
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Salut tuturor(hello to all)
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« Reply #5 on: October 28, 2007, 12:26:14 12:26 » |
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microtest
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« Reply #6 on: December 25, 2007, 11:01:20 23:01 » |
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you can glossy paper with laser or inkjet printers and photoresist positive or negative and work !
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samomni
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« Reply #7 on: December 26, 2007, 04:34:38 04:34 » |
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Me too I use photopaper the glossy type in laser printer and it works just make sure the iron is hot and dont peel it immediately. Better soak it in warm water mix with dishwashing soap, overnite to be sure
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OscarH
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« Reply #8 on: December 26, 2007, 10:05:11 22:05 » |
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Hi, to complete what said Wessoms, instead of printing twice on the same transparent (found this does not align exactly both print in a raw on my DJ690C), I do print on 2 transparents : one standard, and one mirrored, then put both face to face, ink facing ink. This is dark enougth to support UV exposure. I must admit this is not working well when you have very complex PCB with small wires. In this case, better result is with inked surface directly on PCB and short exposure. Oscar
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All mushrooms are edible. At least once...
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sarah007
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« Reply #9 on: December 27, 2007, 02:58:10 14:58 » |
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thanks for the info
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mikepic
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« Reply #10 on: December 29, 2007, 11:10:31 11:10 » |
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Hello
A good and economic paper to make the transfer is the satined printed paper that you can receive in announcements. It's no problem if it has another printing. I've tried it and the results are fantastic
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bbarney
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Uhm? where did pickit put my mute button
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« Reply #11 on: December 29, 2007, 02:16:48 14:16 » |
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Ever wonder why Kamikaze pilot's wore helmet's ?
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kelvar
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« Reply #12 on: December 30, 2007, 10:10:16 10:10 » |
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Does anybody here experience paper shrinkage when using the toner transfer method? I don't know if the shrinkage is due to the paper i use or it is something across the board.
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lrom
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« Reply #13 on: December 31, 2007, 06:26:56 18:26 » |
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Try "glossy photo paper" like the one made by epson.
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leptro
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« Reply #14 on: January 01, 2008, 11:51:28 11:51 » |
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i second mikepic.. many people over the web used this kind of paper. there was a video on youtube but havent the link anymore.
bye
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DTiziano
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« Reply #15 on: January 31, 2008, 06:06:51 18:06 » |
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In my experiance tone transfer is good for single laier, while there is problem of alignment on double side. The problem come from printer linearity (not from the paper) that change a little from time to time and from position to position on the same sheet. Recently I made a double side PCB 190x115 mm with good result, but only by printing in the center. I test many different laser printer, some are better then other but all have this problem.
The problem increase if you do smd circuit.
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bbarney
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Uhm? where did pickit put my mute button
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« Reply #16 on: January 31, 2008, 06:14:24 18:14 » |
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What I do for DS boards is make 2 seperate boards using 1/32" pcb material and then glue the 2 half's together no alignment problems with the printer or paper doing it this way.
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Ever wonder why Kamikaze pilot's wore helmet's ?
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DTiziano
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« Reply #17 on: January 31, 2008, 11:13:41 23:13 » |
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My you have a very good printer.
My problem is not the alignment of the two side, but that the two printed image do not match well. This problem is printer dependent. Many year ago I used a YX flat plotter to print directly on the pcboard without any alignment problem. Flat plotter is very linear and precise, is more or less similar to a CNC mill. The problem was the pen ink, size and life.
The two board glued together is a good idea, but is it not too delicate ?
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pama
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« Reply #18 on: February 01, 2008, 05:50:21 05:50 » |
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hi,
i also played a lot with with tonet transfer board, and now for me is working weel also for double side board (also for 0.65 mm ic pitch, SMD). The printer linearity is a real problem, but if you use the same printer, and you print on the middle of the paper, should work. I just put some extra mark point on the board (for both side) like some pads and if you aline both side without error, the board will be surelly nice... good luck
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rtm
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a.k.a. klug
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« Reply #19 on: February 03, 2008, 04:29:20 16:29 » |
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Do not forget to make board degreasing before toner transfer. Put board at ferrum chloride solution for 30-40 sec - it is an easest way for degreasing.
Glue an envelope of prited papers above an lamp and put pcb there - you will get good alignment of two sides.
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