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Author Topic: hot air solder station suggest  (Read 1986 times)
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[email protected]
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« on: February 12, 2021, 02:15:05 14:15 »

Hi all, i'm looking for a valid hot air station, I don't want a vibrator, I would like a station without membrane pump, best one is with centrifugal fan, silente e more efficient, with light handpiece.
And most important cheaper
Thanks
Max
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PM3295
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« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2021, 03:28:55 15:28 »

I use the ATTEN ST 862D. Definitely the best one I have had so far. Look for deals on  Aliexpress.com for this.

Feature:
 
● LCD display screen making control visualization.
● Temperature unite switching function.
● Temperature locking ,timed work function.
● MCU controlled temperature calibration,compensation for constant working .
● Strong air volume with brushless fan.
● Easy to replace with pluggable heater.
● Convertible with straight air and spiral air.
● Auto-sleep function.
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microstick
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« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2021, 04:00:14 16:00 »

I have the same, I do not know where are you located but in EU you can buy it from TME.eu or batronix.com
The same or similar in a very good prices
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dR-mR
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« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2021, 08:06:04 20:06 »

I also have the  ATTEN ST-862D, i think that this is the beast cheap hot air station you can buy now.
I bought mine from AliExpress for 160 euro with free shipping, from Poland to Nederland came in just one week.
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bobcat1
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« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2021, 11:11:34 11:11 »

Hi All

Thank you for the recommendation I also plan to buy one of this ATTEN ST-862D,

All the best

Bobi
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« Reply #5 on: February 14, 2021, 07:44:03 19:44 »

it's very interesting, others suggested me TENMA  21-10125 EU but seems more expensive...

@microstick i come from italy...

@PM3295 what are "straight air and spiral air."?

thanks for help!
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« Reply #6 on: February 14, 2021, 08:58:35 20:58 »

as far you are from Italy , easy can buy from provided links. Both are offering you guarantee, it is also another important point as also replacements during the time
BR
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PM3295
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« Reply #7 on: February 16, 2021, 03:00:13 15:00 »


@PM3295 what are "straight air and spiral air."?

thanks for help!


I suppose it is the way the air flow changes with speed.  There is nothing in the manual about this, so it may happen automatically. I don't know for sure.
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Poty
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« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2021, 05:16:06 17:16 »

Good afternoon. I have a Hony952 since a few years, and it works pretty well. maybe some vibration, but almost none. It has 2 modes, hot air welding and a ceramic pen welder.... all regulated. 5 years and counting. But this is my experience. Ill love to read about other users opinion.
Regards,
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w41k0v3r
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« Reply #9 on: February 17, 2021, 01:06:58 13:06 »

Hello,

Why do you prefer a hot air station without membrane pump ?
I used since several years a AOYUE 852A+ without any issues, very reliable.
personally I don't like the big handpeace with the integrated fan.

If I had to buy one unit today, I will probably buy a BST-863 or similar but that is not all that you are looking for  Grin
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« Reply #10 on: February 21, 2021, 09:45:59 09:45 »


Why do you prefer a hot air station without membrane pump ?


because I usually work at night while my childs are asleep and the membrane ones are noisier and also hate big handpiece Wink
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fpgaguy
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« Reply #11 on: February 23, 2021, 06:22:18 18:22 »

I've worked with the Hakko one it is nice (fr801/fr810) but not worth the $$

I've been using gaoyuo 850a which is about 100-150 us and decent

I'll probably get the quick 861dw next time - it's very popular

They are all good for small SMD parts, but for BGA's over 10x10 you will need something much more complex


If you need a nitrogen fed version, I would look at what Hakko has though
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« Reply #12 on: February 23, 2021, 10:58:33 22:58 »

I have the give or take 15 year-old previous version of this (no digital display on mine) it's still doing the job like a champ...  But yeah it's noisy and yeah it's a cheap Asian device so you don't get name braging, and yeah it's featureless and not high end, but it simply works and works and works and the price really can't be beaten...

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/hot-air-rework-soldering-station-csi900+.html
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Poty
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« Reply #13 on: February 24, 2021, 02:49:34 02:49 »

It is almost the same as mine!!!! well, you know that asian factories are making the same thing everywhere... mine is a Hony 952, the only difference is that this model has a more complex display, but the result is the same. And in my case, isnt so noisy.... Anyways, Im glad with my unit.
Reagards.

« Last Edit: February 24, 2021, 02:54:22 02:54 by Poty » Logged

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CocaCola
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« Reply #14 on: February 24, 2021, 03:20:48 03:20 »

And I won't lie, I have done a TON of hot air reflow work with a cheap embossing heat gun like this and makeshift aluminum foil heat shields for the board.  And it's generally my go-to for down and dirty depopulation of boards, plus it does a great job with heat shrink tubing so it's always handy that way.

https://www.amazon.com/Sizzix-663706-Version-Speed-Multicolour/dp/B07SSCN6V1
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Unhappy
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« Reply #15 on: February 24, 2021, 04:39:59 04:39 »

And I won't lie, I have done a TON of hot air reflow work with a cheap embossing heat gun like this and makeshift aluminum foil heat shields for the board.  And it's generally my go-to for down and dirty depopulation of boards, plus it does a great job with heat shrink tubing so it's always handy that way.

https://www.amazon.com/Sizzix-663706-Version-Speed-Multicolour/dp/B07SSCN6V1

Any vedio tutorial for the same
TIA
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« Reply #16 on: February 24, 2021, 04:53:25 04:53 »

Any vedio tutorial for the same
TIA

I'm sure there are videos out there, this is the only one I can find right now, this guy used foil tape, I just use regular aluminum foil and kapton or masking tape, obviously be mindful that the board is totally discharged and the foil should float above the components so there is an air gap that actually does the insulating...  Beyond that, the embossing heat gun is just a small hot air gun, but it has a broad pattern thus the need to protect surrounding components...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JlyvtCS8uY
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pickit2
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« Reply #17 on: February 24, 2021, 10:39:23 10:39 »

When we first stared using hot air repair in the workshop. we had loads of problems.
most were solved by using temperature ovens, to bring the pcb up to a level that components did not suffer sudden heat changes.
we used kapton tape and aluminum foil, also some masking frames that diverted unwanted heat away from the work.
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« Reply #18 on: February 24, 2021, 11:36:01 11:36 »

pickit2 i've bought a T962 and updated firmware with web version, but i need something more easy to use and to do some reparation
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« Reply #19 on: February 24, 2021, 12:49:28 12:49 »

pickit2 i've bought a T962 and updated firmware with web version, but i need something more easy to use and to do some reparation
we did not use a reflow oven, it was used to bring the pcb up to a level that components did not suffer heat damage.
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« Reply #20 on: February 24, 2021, 11:00:05 23:00 »

pickit2 i've bought a T962 and updated firmware with web version, but i need something more easy to use and to do some reparation

Toaster oven?  I could not justify a proper reflow oven for the volume of smd boards I used to produce, so I got a cheap toaster oven and some porcelain tiles that fit inside, I place the boards on the porcelain tiles and put in the oven, the porcelain tiles prevented hot spots from the heating elements and gave a slower cool-down period...  I can't remember the manual heating profile I found worked best but it didn't take much trial and error...  Simple pre-heating for manual hot air repairs would be dead simple do with a simple toaster oven...

Again I don't have any specifics on what I did, kids came along and I stepped away from much of my electronics hobby/business, but I didn't go all crazy with mods like some do, just manual twisting of the dial and a stopwatch on the bare bones stock toaster oven...
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« Reply #21 on: March 03, 2021, 05:35:24 17:35 »

Hello,

To my amazement at the very beginning, I never broke components with my cheap hot air station.
It takes a little intuition and observing the change in the tin appearance.
But I use it to solder my prototypes and not for repairs. It's probably a different story if you have to change a big fine pitch BGA on a 8 layers board.
A good solution is to preheat the board with a pre heater or a hot plate ( search for UYUE 946C ).
You have to use a good tin and the "right amount of flux". I almost never exceeded 350C unlike a lot of repair specialist videos that can be seen on youtube.
( but I use leaded tin with a fairly low melting temperature )
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