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Author Topic: Electroplating Power Supply  (Read 11489 times)
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Ichan
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« Reply #25 on: January 14, 2008, 04:23:55 16:23 »

Well, too much time browsing and downloading, much less time on working!!!

Just found a better refference from IEEE transaction... A microcomputer Controlled Current Source.

Regards, Ichan.
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looser
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« Reply #26 on: January 14, 2008, 05:08:11 17:08 »

Ichan 
it is  a very luxurious circuit for a slow motion process. Ultimate solution indeed.

To me, simple controller is the best. One thing to remember; if you will prepare a small bath and hung the pieces to plate make sure rotate the pieces continuously to provide evenly coated.
regards.
 
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sohel
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« Reply #27 on: January 14, 2008, 05:44:36 17:44 »

i have some exprience with pth pro.  when i training in pth i have collect data for chemical.  rest of u.


 PTH
-------

1. Cleaner Conditioner 5 liter:
  / Unicon 150 CX - 5% /
  / Rest water   95%   /  Temp=60' Time 8-12 min

2. Micro Etch 5kg
  / Micro Etch 281 -  150gm/L /
  / Sulfuric acid - 15 ml/L   /
  / Water         - 1 liter   / room temp, 1-2 min

3. Pre Dip 5kg

   /HCL - 150 mil/L           /
   / PD 237 - 150 gm/L        /
   / Water                    / r.t  time 1-5min

4. Activator

   /Water - 600 ml            /
   / HCL  200ml               /
   / PD 237  - 150 gm         /
   / Additive 410 - 20ml      /
   / Catalyst C-100  -50ml    / time 8-10 min

5. Acceleratar
   / Accelerator 893 - 20%    / r.t 4-5 min

6. Electroless copper 5 liter
   / MEC Cu 806 A  - 100 ml  /
   / MEC Cu 806 B  - 100ml   /
   / Water         - 800ml   / temp 25-30'C 20 min

7. Acid Dip
   / Sulfuric Acid 5%         time 2 min

8. Acid Copper 5 kg For bath

   / Copper Sulphate   - 80 gm/l /
   / Sulphuric Acid    - 100 ml/l/
   / Additive Cu 844   ml/l      /
   / Water                       / 25Amp/SqFeet time 10-15 min


9. Cu 856 - 1-2%

dry

Brushing --> lamination With Dry Flim ---> Exposing ---> Developing ---> Sodium Carbonet 1-2%



1. Acid Cleaner  / AC-10 %    / time 35-40 min

2. Micro Etch
  / ME 281 - 50gm/l /
  / sulfuric acid  -15ml/li   /
  / Water                     / 1-2 min

3. Acid Dip H2SO4 -5%    time 1-2 min

4. Copper Plating  time 30-45 min

5. Acid Dip H2SO4- 5%

6. Acid Tin:

   / Stannaus Sulphate - 30 gm/l    /
   / H2SO4      - 100 ml/l          /
   / stanolex A    - 40ml/l         /
   / Stanolex B   - 2.5ml/l         /  time 10-15 min in bath
 
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Ichan
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« Reply #28 on: January 15, 2008, 09:11:08 21:11 »

Hi Looser, me too loves simplicity. This became more complex as Periodic Pulse Reverse (PPR) Plating features included, and the current somewhat high. I do have a 20A linear current regulator for my plating tank, in a search for a better design with higher current i found that PPR thing.

Some good features of PPR:
- can plate copper without additive (is this true?)
- uniform plating thickness of hole wall (eliminate "dog boning" shape)
- can fill blind via (i dont need this)
- shorter plating time (because of more uniform plating thickness)
- can be used as electro-cleaning supply
- posibilities to do integral coloring on anodizing

@Sohel
Thank you for sharing PTH plating procedure. The propietary chemical used is the most difficult thing to purchase for DIY'er like me. Do you have chemical formulation of those propietary chemicals? What was the activator and accelerator made from?

Regards, Ichan.
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looser
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« Reply #29 on: January 16, 2008, 10:09:29 10:09 »

Ichan
I had no chance to compare the advantage of reverse pulse plating to conventional method but it may help to uniform plating becouse accelerating the ions from one electrode to other but suddenly stop and force them back shortly and accelerate again the same way before may provide chance to all ions move linear along all the solution. And this may couse the uniform plating.
Either way possible for a plating but again bear in mind that moving and rounding in the bath is a must becouse ions are clever to go the shortest distance. You need to fake them and point the hard to reach sides of your target to those clever ions to stick on as if the shortest path is that.

If we start from the beginig of the plating
1- clean the target mechanicaly.  may use fine sand paper, powder detergant like  vim or even scotch brite like hard cleaners.
2-wash it
3-dip it into sulphuric acid solution for couple of minute. Can find H2SO4 from plumbing suppliers. Watch it. If pure, it is very irritating. Take a liter of water and add very very very  slowly 5% acit onto. Notice I SAID SLOOOOOOWLY
4-make a bath of disolved ordinary laundry soda.( can be any amount till saturation)  hang the pieces in and apply voltage like plating. ( javex like ready agents will work fine )
you will see millions of buble .This will clean from oil like deposits and films .
5-wash again without touching.
6-plate in your bath.

regards.
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sohel
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« Reply #30 on: January 16, 2008, 10:25:21 10:25 »


@Sohel
Thank you for sharing PTH plating procedure. The propietary chemical used is the most difficult thing to purchase for DIY'er like me. Do you have chemical formulation of those propietary chemicals? What was the activator and accelerator made from?

Regards, Ichan.
[/quote]

For ur information, i have learn how pth bath make long time ago from india. (delhi) . let me check his address then i can send u all reference. he will help u all thing. most helpfull men in pth. but one thing u may work on it ,or it demage solution if it not work contunue. first u need all chemical then upgrade chemical bath with some chemical. so its not for hobby.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2008, 10:31:26 10:31 by sohel » Logged
sellful
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« Reply #31 on: February 10, 2008, 03:17:47 15:17 »

See Link :
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine.html
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine.html
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine2.html
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine2.html
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine3.html
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine3.html
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine4.html
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine4.html
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine5.html
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine5.html
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine6.html
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine6.html
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine7.html
http://www.dioda.ro/tutorial/TroughHole_MZingg/Welcome%20to%20the%20homebrew%20through%20plating%20machine7.html
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Ichan
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« Reply #32 on: February 10, 2008, 06:40:06 18:40 »

Hi, thanks for the link, I believe the pages owned by Marcuss Zing. I use his trick on making solder paste stencil from dry-film photoresist and aluminum foil, i read it on homebrew_pcb google group (I'm a lurker there  Grin). The difference is i use much thicker aluminum sheet, 0.1 mm, it's stiffer but then it fails on very fine pitch footprint. It will be much easier to understand by seeing a picture, here i attach a picture of my homebrew pcb and stencil.

Back to the power supply, i am getting it very slow on the drawing. I just finished installing the Proteus and watching the video tutorial from Smainj, a very good jump start video.

Regards, Ichan.
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